Winter prep
How to Prevent Frozen Pipes in a Colorado Winter
Pipes freeze and burst when water in an unheated run, an exterior wall, a crawl space, an unheated garage, or an outdoor hose bibb, drops below freezing and the ice expands. The fixes are simple and cheap: disconnect hoses before the first freeze, insulate vulnerable pipe, keep the house warm enough even when you are away, and on the coldest nights let a trickle run and open cabinet doors on outside walls. Here is exactly which pipes are at risk in a Colorado home and how to protect them.
Why the Front Range is hard on pipes
Colorado's Front Range does not just get cold, it swings. A sunny afternoon can sit well above freezing and the same night drop into the teens, and that freeze-thaw cycle is what makes winter here tough on plumbing. Water expands about nine percent when it freezes, and in a closed pipe that expansion has nowhere to go, so it builds enormous pressure. Interestingly, the pipe often does not split at the ice itself but downstream of it, where the trapped water is squeezed against a closed faucet. The crack may not even show until the ice thaws and water pours out, which is why a frozen pipe discovered in time is a save and one discovered late is a flood.
Englewood's older housing adds risk, because pre-war and postwar homes often have uninsulated crawl spaces, pipe run through exterior walls, and additions or porches with plumbing that was never well protected from the cold.
Which pipes are most at risk
The usual freeze points
- Outdoor hose bibbs and any pipe feeding them
- Pipe in an unheated garage, especially a laundry hookup on a garage wall
- Pipe in a crawl space, basement rim area, or against an uninsulated exterior wall
- Kitchen and bathroom supply lines on outside walls, under sinks
- Plumbing in a seasonal or unheated space: a sunroom, porch, or vacant unit
The common thread is any water-filled pipe that sits in a space the home's heat does not reach. Those are the runs to find before winter and protect, because they are where nearly every burst starts.
Prevention, from cheapest to most thorough
Before the first hard freeze
Disconnect and drain garden hoses. A connected hose traps water in the bibb, and that water freezes, expands, and can split the pipe back inside the wall where you will not see it until spring. If you have interior shutoffs for the outdoor bibbs, close them and drain the bibb; if you have frost-free hose bibbs, disconnecting the hose is the key step that lets them do their job. Blow out or shut down the irrigation system for the season.
Insulate the vulnerable runs
Foam pipe sleeves on the pipes in crawl spaces, garages, and against exterior walls are inexpensive and effective. For a run that has frozen before, heat cable (heat tape) rated for the job adds active protection. Seal drafts and gaps where cold air pours in near pipes, a surprising amount of freezing happens because outside air is blowing directly across a pipe through a gap in the rim joist or foundation.
On the coldest nights
Let a faucet fed by an at-risk pipe drip; moving water is much harder to freeze, and an open faucet relieves the pressure that actually bursts the pipe. Open the cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls so household heat reaches the pipes. Keep the thermostat at a steady temperature day and night rather than setting it back hard overnight during a deep freeze. If you leave town in winter, do not turn the heat off; keep it set no lower than the mid-fifties, and consider having someone check the house.
| Step | When | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Disconnect hoses, shut off bibbs | Before first freeze | Minutes |
| Insulate exposed pipe | Fall | An afternoon |
| Heat cable on repeat-freeze runs | Fall | Small install |
| Drip faucets, open cabinets | Coldest nights | Minutes |
| Keep heat on when away | All winter | None |
What to do if a pipe freezes but has not burst
If a faucet barely trickles on a cold morning and you suspect a freeze, act before it bursts. Open the faucet so that as the ice melts, water and pressure have an escape. Apply gentle heat to the frozen section, a hair dryer, a space heater kept safely clear of anything flammable, or warm towels, working from the faucet end back toward the ice. Never use an open flame. If you cannot reach the frozen spot, or the pipe has already split, shut off the water at the main and call. A frozen pipe that has cracked needs burst pipe repair, and if it has thawed and flooded, prompt water damage restoration is what keeps it from becoming a mold problem.
The runs worth a professional look
If the same pipe freezes every winter, that is a design problem worth solving permanently rather than nursing through each cold snap, whether by rerouting, insulating properly, or adding heat cable. And if you are not sure which of your pipes are exposed, a plumber can walk the crawl space, garage and exterior walls with you before winter and point out the runs at risk. An hour of prevention in the fall is far cheaper than a flooded basement in January. The same freeze-thaw risk runs across the older housing throughout the south metro, so whether your home is in Englewood or nearby Littleton, the fall checklist is the same: find the exposed runs, protect them, and keep the heat on. If a hidden pinhole from a past freeze has been weeping unseen behind a wall, that is worth catching with leak detection before it quietly swells the framing around it.
Common questions
At what temperature do pipes freeze?
Water freezes at 32 degrees, but a pipe usually needs to sit in air below about 20 degrees, or endure a sustained freeze, before the water inside freezes solid enough to burst it. Exposed pipe in an unheated space on a cold Front Range night is the real risk.
Does leaving a faucet dripping actually help?
Yes, on an at-risk pipe during a hard freeze. Moving water is harder to freeze, and more importantly an open faucet relieves the pressure that actually bursts a pipe. It is a cheap precaution on the coldest nights.
Why do I need to disconnect garden hoses?
A connected hose traps water in the outdoor bibb. That water freezes and expands and can split the pipe back inside the wall, where you will not see the damage until it thaws in spring. Disconnecting the hose before the first freeze prevents it.
Should I turn the heat off if I leave for the winter?
No. Keep the heat set no lower than the mid-fifties and, ideally, have someone check the house. A home with the heat off in a Colorado winter is the classic setup for frozen and burst pipes and a flood nobody discovers for days.
My pipe is frozen but not burst. What do I do?
Open the faucet so melting water and pressure can escape, then gently warm the frozen section with a hair dryer or space heater kept clear of anything flammable, working from the faucet toward the ice. Never use a flame. If you cannot reach it or it has split, shut the main and call.